Climbing High Adventure
The summits of Cotopaxi and Chimborazo are clearly
in our sights as we climb a variety of peaks designed as complete
Ecuador climbing program. The first peaks are used to build up our
acclimatization, we hike up to the active crater of Guagua Pichincha,
on Pasochoa we have the chance to see Andean Condors, and Corazon
stretches our stamina. By extending our acclimatization with 2 days
on Iliniza before attacking the big ones, we give ourselves the
best chance of success. Climb high maximizes the climbing experience
in Ecuador summiting a variety of peaks and training for Cotopaxi
and Chimborazo along the way.
Day 1 Pasochoa 4,200 meters/13,780 feet
We rise early for our 7am departure to Pasochoa an
extinct volcano with a microclimate that supports a sub-tropical
forest. Our journey takes us south of Quito to the Pasochoa Reserve
a protected forest, administered by the Fundacion Natura. The forest
is one of the last remaining stands of native Andes forest remaining
in Ecuador. Our 3-hour hike takes us through the forest and
to the crater rim. As we near the crater we have a good chance
to see the Andean Condors which make Pasochoa their home in the
crags of the mountain.Having completed our first summit we
return to Quito for the night.
Day 2 Guagua Pichincha 4700 meters/15,421 feet
Our second summit is Pichincha an immense volcano
standing over Quito with a long history of eruptions. The activity
from the crater has increased over the past months, and Quito has
been placed on alert awaiting the next big eruption. Pichincha
is made up of three peaks, our climb is of Guagua ("baby"
in Quichua) the active crater. Guagua Pichincha is our first
peak over 4700 meters (15,000 feet) and an interesting lesson in
the life of volcanoes. Our 4-hour hike provides a variety
of scenery as we hike through green pastures and forest, to reach
the stony summit. At the top we are rewarded by a spectacular
view of Quito and the Avenue of the Volcanoes to the South. We return
to Quito in the afternoon for the night.
Day 3 Corazon 4700 meters/15,421 feet
As we leave Quito in the morning we take our belongings
with us, our next few days climbing the summits in the Cotopaxi
province and Cotopaxi itself. The first of these summits is Corazon
an ancient eroded and extinct volcano. Corazon "heart"
in Spanish is named for the two gullies on the northwest slopes
which when seen from a distance appear to join together roughly
in the shape of a heart. Our 7-hour hike winds through paramo, passing
directly beneath a pine forest. We cross various irrigation canals
before following one fairly straight up to a rocky area at the saddle.
Then we scramble through skree to the summit. We descend the mountain
for Hosteria La Estacion located at the base where we spend the
night.
Day 4 and 5 Iliniza North 5200 meters/17, 061 feet
This morning we have the chance to sleep-in. We
depart for Iliniza around 9:30am and drive as far up Iliniza as
far as the jeep can take us. Then we take our packs and hike up
through the paramo to the refuge located in the saddle between the
north and south peak. Our afternoon is spent exploring the area
and we spend the night in the refuge. Though Iliniza North is not
a snow peak it is worth taking a rope. The ground freezes at night
and departures are usually later in the morning so that any vergales
has had the chance to melt. In the morning we have a 4-hour climb
from the refuge along sandy skree filled slopes to reach the summit.
Having reached our 4th summit we are ready to begin our snow-peaks.
Day 6 Rest Day
Free day to rest and relax before our ascent of Cotopaxi.
Day 7 and 8 Cotopaxi 5897 meters/19,348 feet
One of the nicest volcanoes in Ecuador, Cotopaxi's
symmetrical cone can often be seen from the capital and surrounding
peaks. This active volcano is Ecuador's 2 nd highest peak and the
highest active volcano in the world. Cotopaxi last erupted in 1877
and is now gassing. The area is blessed with the highest number
of clear days in the Ecuadorian Andes making summit attempts possible
year round.
We depart in the morning for Cotopaxi National Park.
Visiting the museum near the park entrance. Our journey continues
to the car park where we set out on foot for the refuge located
at 3500 meters (15, 749 feet). In the afternoon our guide teaches
how to use climbing equipment. We spend the afternoon resting and
have an early dinner. Our 6-hour summit attempt begins with an alpine
start at midnight so that we can be off the snow by 10am. We climb
the northern route to the summit. And reach the summit in
the morning light and from this vantage point we can see all of
Ecuador's major peaks. We return to Quito in the afternoon.
Day 9 Rest Day
Free day to rest and relax before our ascent of Chimborazo
Day 10 and 11 Chimborazo 6310 meters/20,703 feet
The highest mountain in the country and for many years
thought to be the highest mountain in the world, Chimborazo remains
the point on the earth's surface closest to the sun. Its peak is
higher than any mountain in the Americas north of it Denali being
some 75 meters (246 feet) lower. The mountain is snow capped, snow
and ice climbing equipment and technique is required. Chimborazo
has 5 summits the Whymper (or Ecuador) 6310 meters (20,703 feet)
is the most frequently climbed.
We depart from our hotel drive down to Chimborazo
arriving at approximately 2pm. Our afternoon is free to relax, acclimatize
and enjoy one of the best sunsets in Ecuador. We begin climbing
at midnight with the summit approximately 8 hours away. Returning
to the refuge we spend the rest of the morning relaxing and then
return to Quito in the afternoon.
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