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-->back to Cotopaxi gude
Climbing Cotopaxi
 The
snows and glaciers become very unstable during the day, so Cotopaxi
like the other Nevadas, requires an attack at night. Leaving Quito
in the morning we arrive at the refuge about 1300 hours, stopping
along the way to sort out the climbing equipment and visit the Cotopaxi
National Park museum. Once at the refuge, we enjoy a boxed lunch,
and lock away the extra equipment and backpacks to go onto the glacier
and practice climbing techniques (many of our clients never having
climbed before). Our guide instructors teach four basic techniques
that you need to master:
- Use of crampons
- Use of the rope
- Self arrest with the ice axe
- Self rescue with a prussic (in the refuge)
After dinner at the refuge the group rests until midnight, when
the climbers leave the refuge. The objective is to be at the summit
by 0700 hours and off the snow by 1000 hours, when it starts to
soften up again and becomes dangerous.
The first hour out of the refuge is spent going up a pumice-covered
slope to the glacier. The glacier then has to be crossed, avoiding
the crevasses, and then joining a ridge to make the summit passing
close by the western edge of Yana Sacha, the rock cliff that dominates
the northern face of the volcano.
Grades average out at about 40% but there is some relief in this
depending on the route. Our qualified climbing guides provide the
advanced skills that the team might need and use their experience
on Cotopaxi to make decisions concerning the climb. Apart from warm
clothing, Safari can provide all the equipment you might need for
the climb. The team is typically back in Quito around 1600 hours
on the second day.
To summit Cotopaxi you need to be in good health, fit and most
importantly acclimatized. Acclimatization typically requires
about 6 days at Quito's altitude and 3 or 4 peaks first. You could
climb Cotopaxi as part of our Climb High 8-day itinerary or after
attending our Glacier Climbing School on Cayambe.
Top 
Acclimatization peaks recommended
before climbing Cotopaxi include:
For more information on Cotopaxi please see Safari's Guide to Cotopaxi
or check-out one of our other adventures to the Cotopaxi area:
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Climbing School