The snows and glaciers become very unstable during the day, so Cotopaxi like the other Nevados, requires an attack at night. Leaving Quito in the morning we arrive at the refuge about 1300 hours, stopping along the way to sort out the climbing equipment and visit the Cotopaxi National Park museum. Once at the refuge, we enjoy a boxed lunch, and lock away the extra equipment and backpacks to go onto the glacier and practice climbing techniques (many of our clients never having climbed before). Our guide instructors teach four basic techniques that you need to master:

After dinner at the refuge the group rests until midnight, when the climbers leave the refuge. The objective is to be at the summit by 0700 hours and off the snow by 1000 hours, when it starts to soften up again and becomes dangerous.

The first hour out of the refuge is spent going up a pumice-covered slope to the glacier. The glacier then has to be crossed, avoiding the crevasses, and then joining a ridge to make the summit passing close by the western edge of Yana Sacha, the rock cliff that dominates the northern face of the volcano.

Grades average out at about 40% but there is some relief in this depending on the route. Our qualified climbing guides provide the advanced skills that the team might need and use their experience on Cotopaxi to make decisions concerning the climb. Apart from warm clothing, Safari can provide all the equipment you might need for the climb. The team is typically back in Quito around 1600 hours on the second day.

To summit Cotopaxi you need to be in good health, fit and most importantly acclimatized.  Acclimatization typically requires about 6 days at Quito's altitude and 3 or 4 peaks first. You could climb Cotopaxi as part of our Climb High 8-day itinerary or after attending our Glacier Climbing School on Cayambe.

Are you interested in receiving more detailed information regarding Climbing in Ecuador? The Climbing Team at Safari will be happy to provide you with customized information regarding your personal needs. Please take a few moments to fill out our Questionnaire and our staff will provide you with personalized information free of charge.